Ladakh, which literally means "many passes", is the northern extremity of India. East of the valley of Kashmir, Ladakh is often referred to as the "Little Tibet", or the "Last Shangri-La". Ladakh is the trans-Himalayan region, which separates the western Himalayan peaks from the Tibetan plateau.

Ladakh can best be described as a cold desert. Situated above 2500 mts, with passes as high as 4000 to 6000 mts, the rarified air could well leave you gasping for breath. And if that ain’t enough, the breathtaking locales, beautiful Buddhist Gompas perched precariously on mountain tops and amazing flora and fauna, will leave you spell bound .The land of Ladakh stands out in stark contrast to Kashmir. Where as the Kashmir valley abounds in greenery and water fountains, Ladakh has barren landscape with very limited sources of water. But the people of Ladakh who have worked day in and out to survive in this hostile environment make up what it lacks in nature. The people of Ladakh are mostly Mahayana Buddhists belonging to the sect of the Red or Yellow Lamas.

The Gompas (monasteries) that dot Ladakh’s landscape are an integral part of the lives of people living there. These Gompas serve as places of worship, meditation and learning schools. Some of the most spectacular fairs and festivals are celebrated around these Gompas.

Ever since trouble broke out in the Kashmir valley, Ladakh has become a favorite tourist destination for many. During the 1st two weeks of September, the Ladakh Tourism Department organizes Ladakh Festival, and it is a not to be missed event. Ladakh offers a range of possibilities to the tourists and one visit is sure to have you asking for more.

The history of Ladakh is spread over thousands of years. Ancient rock carvings indicate that nomadic tribesmen, including the monks of north India, the fierce Mongols and Changpas of Tibet, the Dard’s etc., inhabited Ladakh. This region was highly prosperous and an important trade region as it lay along the silk route.

The earliest records suggest that, around the 10^th century, the Thi Dynasty was ruling Ladakh. The Thi rulers had their capital at Shey and built many forts. Around the same time, Tibetan Buddhism invaded Ladakh and this period saw a surge of construction. Around 100 Gompas were built. In 1533, the Great King Soyang Namgyal united the whole region into one large kingdom and built his capital at Leh. The descendents of the Namgyal dynasty are still regarded as the rulers of Ladakh by the people here, and the Queen of Stok has been a member of the Indian Parliament.

During the reign of later Namgyal kings like Senge Namgyal (1570-1620) and Deldan Namgyal (1620-60), the region of Ladakh was extensively attacked by the Baltis,with the support of the Mughals. However, the Namgyal repelled these intrusions and Ladakhi power was consolidated. To ward off a Mongol invasion, King Delegs Namgyal turned to the Mughal governor of Kashmir for help. The Mughal Governor of Kashmir sent troops to help the king of Leh. The Mongols were defeated but the king had to pay a regular tribute to the Mughals and construct a mosque. Ladakh therefore became an extension of the Mughal Empire.

In 1834 the Dogra power was at it peak in Jammu and Kashmir. Zorawar Singh, the General of the Dogra king of Jammu, led an expedition against Ladakh and captured the capital Leh. Thus, Ladakh came under Dogra suzerainity. The royal family of Ladakh was shifted to the palace at Stok, where they continue to live till this day.

The capital of Ladakh, Leh is one of the highest inhabited places in India situated at an elevation of 11,000 ft. Leh is the starting point for journeys into other regions of Ladakh.

Leh was a well known trading town and had close relations with the central Asian regions of Yarkand and Kashgar. Leh is about 10 km from the Indus River situated on the fertile side of the valley. The famous silk route used to pass through here. These days Leh has grown into a major town with an airport and over a 100 hotels. The bazaar (market) has been modified to cater to tourist needs and to sell traditional Ladakhi arts and craft.

Leh can be accessed by two roads. One is form Manali via Keylong and the other is from Srinagar via Kargil. Regular flights also operate from Delhi, Jammu & Srinagar. Travelling by road helps acclimatize the tourist to Leh’s rarified air.

The main attraction in Leh is the Leh palace. Though it is in bad shape, the palace is worth a visit. It was the residence of the royal family of Nepal until 1830, when they were exiled to Stok. Just above the palace, on top of the Namgyal Hill, stands a fort called the "VICTORY FORT". This fort commemorates Ladakh’s win over the combined armies of Kashmir and Baltistan in the early 16th century. There are also the ruins of the Leh Gompa built by the royal family. This Gompa houses a large golden Buddha, many painted scrolls, murals and old manuscripts,

North of Leh is the TSEMO GOMPA - a 15th century construction, having a colossal 2 storey high image of MAITREYA flanked by AVALOKITESWARA and MANJUSRI.

The SOMA GOMPA in the old village was constructed in 1957 to celebrate the 2500th anniversary of the birth of Buddha.

For those interested in understanding more about life in Ladakh and the never say die spirit of the people here, a visit to the ECOLOGICAL CENTRE of the "Ladakh Ecological Development Group" is a must. This group founded in 1983 spreads awareness about environmental issues in Ladakh. It aims to make Ladakhis self-reliant. Unique technologies to alleviate people’s suffering like solar cell powered turbines to produce water are some of the projects under implementation. There is a handicraft shop, selling locally made goods, display of machine, devices using alternative technology and a good collection of literature at the library.

The Gompa of the Yellow Hat Sect (17th-18th century) is built at the bottom of the valley and is a pleasant 3 km walk from Leh. The Head Lama of Spituk resides here. The Gompa has a large collection of gold statues, numerous wall paintings, sculptures etc.

Another landmark building worth visiting is the LEH MOSQUE, situated in the main bazaar. This mosque was commissioned by Emperor Aurangzeb and its architecture is quite in contrast to the styling of the Gompas.

The favorite leisure activity of the people of Leh is Polo, which is played during summer in the Polo ground. During winter, archery is the favorite with local teams competing with each other to hit a white clay target.

Built in 1645 as a tribute to King Singge Namgyal, Chemrey Gompa is a must see. Even though getting there is difficult, the effort is worth it. The Gompa has an impressive library and beautiful images in the traditional style on the walls of the prayer room. There are no places to stay, but camping is possible and numerous scenic sites are available. To get to Chemrey village one has to catch the bus to Taktok and get down at Chemrey. A steep walk for an hour, that is sure to leave you exhausted, will see you at this Gompa.

Very close to Leh, Choglamsar is an important centre for study of Tibetan Culture and History. It is enroute to Stok, and the surrounding here are quite in contrast to rest of the country. Choglamsar abounds in greenery with Poplar and Willow trees dotting the landscape. There are Golf courses, horticulture nurseries and a polo ground as well. There is a Tibetan library, medical centre, shops selling handicrafts, bookshops, plenty of restaurants and last but not the least, the "Central Institute of Buddhist Studies".

About 45 kms from Leh is the Hemis Gompa built around early 17th century. It is known locally as CHANG-CHUB-SAM-LING (The love palace of the compassionate person). HEMIS is a must see on every tourist's itinerary. It is said that every Ladakhi Buddhist must visit this Gompa at least once in his lifetime. The monastery is built on a green hillside, on the west banks of the Indus. The Gompa is one of the largest and richest in Ladakh. It belongs to the Drukpa order and was built by Stagsang Raspa, The four posts of the Gompa have colorful flags on them. The Gompa boasts of an excellent library, well preserved frescoes and murals, silver gilt chortens and a Kashmiri lacquered wood throne. There is also an important library of books written in the Tibetan style and an impressive collection of "Thangkas". Every 12 years the largest of them is on display. It is made of heavy silk and embroidered in brightly colored threads and pearls. Though there are no guesthouses near the Gompa, but campsites are available nearby. Couple of restaurants outside the Gompa entrance serve decent food. There is a summer festival during June-July, which attracts visitors from around the globe.

Stok is about 10 km from Leh. It is the palace of the last king of Ladakh, who died here in 1974. The palace with over 80 rooms is quite run down and only a few rooms are open to public. The widow of the last king still lives here and the prince ascended the throne in July 1993. The palace houses a museum among other things. The museum is a storehouse of many of the "Royal Thangkas"(some over 400 year old), crown jewels, traditional clothing, jewelry and religious objects. Photography is not permitted. The Gompa is situated behind the museum and contains some ritual dance marks and frescoes. An annual archery contest is held here in July. Walk for couple of hours behind the stupa to catch a glimpse of some breathtaking scenery.

Shey is situated on the eastern bank of the Indus River. Approximately 15 kms south of Leh is the Shey palace. It used to be the summer capital of the Ladakhi kings, but is now a beautiful ruined reminder of their past glory. At the Shey Gompa is the 12 ft Shakyamuni Buddha Statue made of copper, but gold plated. This statue built by the king Singge Namgyal’s son is the largest Buddha statue in the region. The wall paintings have been restored and the Gompa library has more than 1000 Buddhas on the walls. Outside the palace is a huge Victory Stupa (memorial) with a gold tipped spire. Shey, along with Thikse is considered an auspicious cremation place, and the grounds behind the Gompa have large numbers of Chortens (burial vessels for cremation ashes), containing ashes of important monks, members of royalty and many other worshippers. Shey also has some beautiful rock carvings and the fine "Dhyani Buddhas" at the base of the hill are note worthy. Shey is enroute Thikse or Hemis from Leh and easily accessible. Accommodation is available outside the Gompa.

One of the most spectacular monasteries in Ladakh is the Thikse Gompa. Originally a part of the Gelukpa order, Thikse is a serial of stupas constructed over 800 years at various times and various heights. From the Shey summit Thikse is visible and makes for a beautiful sight. The monastery is 12 storied and painted in deep shades of red ochre and white. The complex has 10 temples, a nursery and about 60 Lamas (monks), who reside here and learn the Holy Scriptures. Thikse has a pillar inscribed with the teaching of Lord Buddha. There is also an impressive library. Thikse is the best place to watch religious ceremonies and get an insight into Ladakhi culture. In some festivals, archery competitions are organized in the compound behind Shalzang Chamba. Regular bus service for Thikse is available from Leh and it is about 25 kms from Leh.

Stakna means, "Tigers Nose" in Ladakhi. The name refers to the shape of the hill on which it is situated. Built by king Singge Namgyal’s stepbrother Stakna in the earliest of the Drukpa monasteries in the region. The monastery is small but well mounted and has beautiful silver gilt chorten installed around 1953. There are also some interesting paintings. From the roof one can get the best view of Ladakh, Indus Valley and the Zanskar ranges. Buses plying between Leh and Hemis are the best way to get to Stakna.

This Gompa is very different from the rest in the upper Indus Valley. It belongs to the Nymgmapa in the upper Indus valley. It is built around a cave just above the village of Sakti. Some of the beautiful paintings have been destroyed but there still are some lonely frescoes and intricately woven rugs on display. Two major festivals are held here during July / August and November.

Drass is said to be the coldest place after Siberia with temperature falling to 590 degrees centigrade during peak winter. Drass is a large village with small clusters of huts scattered over a valley. The inhabitants are Dards and Baltis. Geographically, the region of Drass clearly shows a steep demarcation from the Kargil valley with barren hills covered with snow. Ferocious winds are known to bring snowstorms that can cover entire villages under them. Around 500 A.D., when the Tibetan armies invaded the Ladakh region, the original inhabitants of Drass region called Dards, were converted to Buddhism. However, isolated pockets of their original heritage still remain.

The Dards today are Sunni Muslims while the Baltis are Shias. There are also some other communities who are Buddhists. Drass is situated at 10,144 ft and is difficult to access even under normal circumstances. The Tibetans call Dras "Hembabas."

This is one of the most famous passes in the Indian sub continent. This pass is sometimes referred to as the "Gateway to Kashmir", as many a foreign rulers entered Kashmir after crossing Zojila. Zojila is the boundary between the valley of Kashmir and Ladakh. As one crosses Zojila, the greenery of Kashmir gives way to the barren and dry landscape of Ladakh. The road up the pass, winds around breathtaking mountains, clinging to the edge of sheer drops.

The road to Kubra valley passes through the highest motorable road in the world at Khardungla pass situated at 5602 m. The road passes along breathtaking surroundings. Almost all of the year, the pass is covered with fog and snow. The cold is very severe. However, thanks to the Border Roads Organization, the road is in good shape. Infact it is quite common to come across a traffic jam on the world’s highest road during the summer months. The road is quite treacherous at times and one can stop enroute to view the world below from this pass.

Shergol is a tiny hamlet, which is in fact the boundary line between the Muslim and Buddhist areas of Ladakh. The village has a small but beautiful Gompa perched halfway up the eastern slope of the mountain. It is about 30 kms from Kargil. The Suru River runs in the vicinity and offers beautiful locals for camping.

Approximately 9 kms from Kargil is Mulbekh. Huge outcrops of limestones that have been thrust up along fracture zones, surround the town. Just beyond the village is the famous and well-known rock statue of the Maitreya Buddha (8th - 9th century A.D). This beautiful sculpture is 9m high and is very imposing. The statue depicts a standing Bodhisattva with 4 arms, a headdress and is adorned with jewels. There are also two Gompas on the hillside above the mountain.

Lamayuru is very much the typical Ladakhi Gompa, perched on hilltop with a small village at the base of the hill.

Lamayuru is 10 kms from Kargil and overlooks the mighty Indus River. The Gompa complex includes one of the oldest libraries in the region, which has extensive books and other literature on the Tibetan Kagyupa Sect. Also on display are some murals on 11 headed and 1000 armed Avalokiteshwara image along with a redecorated ‘Dukhang’ (assembly hall). There are also some rock caves, which are tastefully decorated with carpets, Tibetan tables and butter lamps. Local festivals are organized in February - March and July.

Namik la means the "Pillar in the sky". Situated at 3270 m, this village is perched in between Kargil and Leh road. There are other villages around this place and the area is quite flush with Willows and Poplars. There are also a lot of apricot trees.

This is an unusual little Gompa near Saspul and is built on a lowland, quite contrary to other Gompas. The Gompa is renowned for its massive Buddha statues and intricate woodcarvings. Alchi also has the only examples of Kashmiri -style wall paintings available in the area. There are also numerous chortens lying around the villages.

Just before Saspul there is a steep curve in the road, which leads one to the Lekir Gompa. This Gompa has a monastery school where young monks are taught the scriptures. Close to Leh is Basgo Fort. The fort is extensively damaged but still bears witness to a glorious past. The local Gompa has some interesting figures of Buddha.

This Gompa is situated on the road back to Srinagar from Leh. It is about 24 kms from Leh and is a small village. There are some interesting sights. The Gompa belongs to the Red Hat Kagyupa Sect. There is a monastery built by the founder of the Namgyal Dynasty. The Gompa houses hundreds of 14th century Kashmiri bronze statues, thangkas and manuscripts. During July, a temple festival is held amongst the beautiful setting of the temple court yard and the ritual masked dances are staged here.

This area was earlier restricted for foreigners, but these days it is open to visitors. The valley is situated north of Leh and one can cross Khardungla at 5600m. The Nubra valley is along the old silk route and the valley has numerous red sulphur hot springs. The climate here is milder and allows for growing fruits and nuts. There are some Gompas in the valley namely Sanstanling, Sumur and Deskit Gompa.

It is situated at 4250m, Pangong-Tso is about 130 km from Leh along a narrow route. The major part of this region lies in Tibet. The route is via Karu on the Manali - Leh highway where the road passes through Zingral and over the Cheng-La Pass. There are some ideal locations for campsites and the scenery is full of valleys with fresh water streams. Himalayan birds like Quail are seen in ample.