These caves are found in the hills, which are 6 km from Bhubaneshwar.
One can reach these caves from Bhubaneshwar by bus or autorickshaw.These are the two hills
facing each other across the road. The caves on the two low hills of Udayagiri and
Khandagiri give ample proof of Jain and Buddhist occupation of the region at least by the
2nd century B.C.
Khandagiri means "broken hill" and Udayagiri means "hill of the
sunrise." These two hills rise 40m above the surrounding lateritic and infertile
plain. The Archaeological survey of India has carried out major repair work-like
supporting vital features of the caves and protecting important carvings of these coarse
grained sandstone caves. Sandstone is not very sturdy and digging in these hills to make
the caves have made them susceptible to damage.
The inscriptions on some of the rock surfaces, especially that above
Hathi Gupha, (Elephant cave No.14) throw light on the fact a dynasty known as chedis who
ruled the region of Kalinga from their capital probably, identifiable with the site of
Sisupalgarh, 9 km south-east of Khandgiri.
Later on these caves were retouched and even reconstructed during the Kharvela dynasty.
Probably all the caves now found were constructed in the 150 years preceding the birth of
Christ.
Most of these caves were chiseled in these sandstone hills for the Jain monks, who had
renounced the world to meditate in peace and quiet and to do austere penance. The caves
therefore inside one bore with no concessions to any form of comfort, other than to give
basic dry shelter. They are just steeping compartments, which are cramped and low scoffed.
Jain occupation was continuos throughout the successive Buddhist and
Hindu periods in the region even though after the fall of the Kharavelas' Dynasty the
royal patronage finished. On the summit of Khandagiri hill stands the 19th century
"Parsvnath" temple.
These caves are 6 km from Bhubaneshwar town. One can come here by bus,
autorickshaw, taxi and even bicycle for the enterprising is an option to reach here.
Entry timing
As it gets very crowded, access to these caves is now restricted. Entry is from 0800-1800
hrs. Along the way upto the hills one comes across monkeys. If you feed them fruits and
peanuts, they will pester you, so suit yourself.
Climate
Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves are 6 km from Bhubaneshwar and its climate is the same as
that of Bhubaneshwar. Temperature between October to March is around (25oC)
during the day. An ideal time to visit is after March. The maximum temperature rises
steadily and rises upto 95oF and more. The temperature is 35o C or
more during summer until the monsoon rains bring relief to the parched earth and the
temperature dips. Monsoon strikes during late May or early June. Winters are cold and
usually dry. Rainfall maximum 943mm, minimum 54mm.
Cave-3
Return to the road via the Chota Hathi Gupha to reach cave-3. This is above and to the
left of cave-2. Here one can see carvings of elephants on either side, coming out from
behind a tree.
Cave-4
This is a two-story cave with two cells below and two cells above it. The steps to the
upper cells are all in front of cave-5. The pillars here have been renovated, but the
inner brackets are original with good carving -a serpent entwining an elephant and the
repulsive sight of a lion with a prey, are the carvings to lookout for in this cave.
Cave 5
Cave 5 is double storied. It is called the "Jaya-Vijaya" cave. The carving of a
Bodhi tree in the central hall is one of the highlights of this cave.
Cave 6
Due to quarrying work, which was done in the mountains, it has resulted in the floor of
this cave carving in by as much as a metre.
Cave 7
The ceiling of this cave is unusually high.
Cave 8
This cave is behind cave 7 up to its right. This cave is two storied. It is also called
the "Swargapuri" cave. At the entrance of the lower story one cones across two
carved dwarpals or doorkeepers. Here the king and other sacred religious symbols of the
Jains have damaged the carvings. On roof of the lower story of the cave one can see royal
inscriptions. The upper cave carries a 3-line declaration that the Queen of king Kharavela
dedicated the cave.
Cave 9
Around the hill to the right, one comes across the single storied "Ganesh Gupha"
which is almost directly above Rani "Gupha". Above this carving is a structure
whose planing is very similar to that of a Buddhist Chaitya hall. Seeing the structure one
can say without fail that the Jain monks used this place for worship. The carving of
religious Jain symbols is evident in this cave. In cave 10 one can see figures depicting a
duel between a man and woman, an elopement scene etc.
Cave 11,12 and 13
Cave 12 is also called the 'Bagh Gupha' or tiger cave. This cave is entered through the
mouth of the beast, as the entrance is bizarrely carved into the shape of a tiger’s
open mouth. The inscriptions here reveal that it was the cave of the town judge. The other
two caves are called 'Pawana Gupha' or Cave of Purification, and the small 'Sarpa Gupha'
or serpent cave, where the small deer is surrounded by a three-headed cobra.
Cave 14
This cave is also called the "Hathi Gupha" or the "Elephant cave". It
is a simple cave with a 117-line inscription, which relates to the exploits of its
builders, king kharaveli and kalinga who ruled from 168 to 153 BC. To protect this cave, a
masonry shelter was built in 1902. One can come down the flight of shapes from this cave
to reach the main road, and from their take a footpath leading to cave 1 of Khandagiri.
Khandagiri offers a fine bird eye view of Bhubaneshwar from its summit.
The steep path up divides about third of the way up the hill. The path to the right leads
one to the "Ananta Cave" (Cave 3). Further along there is a series of Jain
Temples and, at the top, there is another Jain Temple dating from the 18th Century.
Cave 1 and 2
Cave 1 and 2 are known as "Tatowa Gupha". It derives its name because of the
parrots carved on the arches of their doorways. At the entrance of cave-1, one can see two
sentries attired in "Dhotis" guarding cave 1. On the left one comes across steps
(constructed later) leading to cave 2. This cave is elaborately carved. The three doorways
with arches are intensively and intricately carved. The pilasters depict lively and ornate
carvings of animals, including four elephants and a pair of very life like bulls. The two
pillars supporting the ceiling of the verandah added later as part of the restoration
work. One can see Brahmi inscriptions in red pigment (1st century B.C.-1st century A.D.)
on the back of the cells.
Cave-3
Cave-3 is also called "Ananta Gupha". It is named after the two serpents carved
on the door arches. The Sculptured facade of the cell with unique motive makes this cave
as one of the most interesting one on Khandagiri hills. On the back of the wall of the
cell in addition to the auspicious symbols of the joins like, 10 hrs, serpent, elephant,
the "Swastika" symbol has been added. The carvings on the pilasters of the
arches on the gateway are ornate it depicts figures of athletes, women & elephant. The
central arches have friezes depicting boys chasing lion, bulls and other animals. The
fourth has a line of dozen geese-carving lotuses in their beaks. There are four tympanums;
the 1st shows most probably the turbaned figure of "Surya" (sun). The next shows
Lakshmi having a bath in a lake full of lotus with the water being supplied by elephants
holding the pots, containing water. The fourth tympanum shows a sacred tree with a woman
worshipping, a man and two dwarfs.
From here one can take a footpath leading up to the Jain temples or
retrace ones steps to reach the cave.
Cave 4
The path on the right to cave 2 leads to cave 4. It is a single storied small cave. It has
two entrances.
Cave 5
This cave can be reached by a modern flight of steps leading from the main road. This cave
is damaged which has developed many cracks (Khanda). This cave is therefore also called
"Khandagiri". The path continues past caves 6,7,8, and 9 in a row.
Cave 7
This cave derived its name from the nine Tirth Ankaras (munis) carved on the back and
right walls and is aptly called "Navamuni Gupha". (gupha of the 9 Munis). It was
used as a residential cell in the beginning but since then has been substantially
modified. On the back wall of the original right hand cell there are sculptures of seven
Tirth Ankaras in embossed relief includes Parsvanatha sitting under a seven hooded canopy
flanked by ethereally looking flying figures, and Risa banatha with a halo, seated on a
bull. The last of the five inscriptions in the cell mentions Sudha Chandra, a renowned
teacher of the 11th century.
Cave 8
This cave was originally a dormitory and later converted into a sanctuary. A lot of
renovation work has been carried out and modern pillars have replaced the old worn out
pillars. On the sidewalls of the verandah one can see twelve armed figures. Carvings of
Parsvanatha also can be seen in this cave.
Cave 9
Adjoining cave 8 is cave 9. This cave is also called "Trisula Gupha". The
figures carved suggest that it belong to the 15th century at the earliest. At the back of
the chamber one caves across three chlorite images of Risabanatha on the masonry altar.
The God-like peaceful impression with pleasing personas of a youthful Risabanatha is the
highlight of the cave. Due to the themes of carvings on cave 8 and 9 many pilgrims treat
them as shrines.
Cave 10 and 11
These caves are about 40m south of cave 9. Unmindful quarrying has damaged both these
caves though visages of some carvings are still visible. On the other side of the hills
one can see minor monuments.
Jain Temple
To reach this temple on top of the hill, one takes a steep up from cave 10 or cave 5. The
temple (early 19th century) was built on an earlier temple, which existed on this site.
The later temple was built by Manju Chowdhary and his nephew Bhavani Sadu of cuttack. The
white marble image of Risabanatha is placed in the central hall. This marble statue was
placed there probably in the 1930's. The view from the temple, which is on the summit of
the hill, is worth the climb. One can get a view both of Udayagiri and of the plains
surrounding Bhubaneshwar.
